PIEZOGRAPHY
BW
LONG
TERM PRINTING PROBLEMS / CLEANING ISSUES & TIPS
Please
report errors or omissions to Bill Bergh - bill@cone-editions.com
As we print many hundreds or even thousands of prints on the Epson
printers, there will inevitably come a time when cleanliness inside
the printer will adversely effect print quality.
Professional printers like the Iris printer, are designed with
daily cleaning in mind. There is a built in vacuum with tubing
for cleaning up ink spills and parts are made to be removed and
washed in a sink.
The Epson printers have no user serviceable parts. The print
heads are not meant to be removed and rinsed out. Ink splatters
on the inside of the case during cleaning cycles and can build
up over time. The print heads are cleaned over the print head
cap - and this same cap is used to seal the print head while the
printer is off. (More professional Epson printers like the 7000,
clean the print heads in a flushing cup separate from the print
head caps.) Ink gunk can build up in the printhead cap and be
transferred to the printhead.
One common symptom is a blob of dark ink in the middle of a print.
It is obvious from looking at the problem that this is not a printing
problem, but a cleanliness problem. The splotch looks like a big
drip that fell to the paper as the printhead moved across the
sheet.
Other symptoms can appear as a black scuff or smear on the right
side of the print, that results from the bottom of the printhead
contacting the edge of the paper as it begins to print. The rollers
can become dirty and there are obvious streaks down the print
that could only come from dirty rollers.
Sometimes the print heads can appear to be clean using the Epson
utility nozzle checks but while printing, areas of the print appear
posterized or solarized. This can be caused but a printhead that
is being starved for ink during a period of high demand, which
occurs while printing an image.
Nozzles can stop printing for an inch or two and then suddenly
start working again. This will result in a ruined print with
a small white scratch like line. Another variation of this, is
a buildup on the printhead that deflects a nozzle. In this scenario,
the nozzle keeps printing but is deflected. There is a small
light scratch like line with a corresponding line adjacent that
is dark. The ink droplets have printed in the wrong place. These
can often only be an inch or two long and then seemingly fix themselves
as the printing continues.
LONG
TERM CLEANING ISSUES
1 - SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS WHEN USING THE
CIS BULK FEED SYSTEM
2 - DARK INK SCUFF ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE PAPER
3 - PAPER DID NOT FEED AND PRINTER PRINTED INK ON ITSELF
(especially the 1200)
4 - DIRTY ROLLERS LEAVE ROLLER MARKS ON THE PAPER
5 - SPLATTERED INK INSIDE THE CASE ON THE FAR RIGHT
SIDE
6 - DRIPS OF EXCESS INK ON THE PAPER DURING PRINTING
(cleaning the underside of the printhead, printhead cap)
7 - AGGRESSIVE PRINTHEAD CLEANING TIPS
8 - TIPS TO AVOID CLEANLINESS PROBLEMS
SOLUTIONS
1
- SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS WHEN USING THE CIS BULK FEED SYSTEM
The CIS system adds external 4 oz. bottles, tubing,
and a permanent cartridge system to the printer. This reduces
the cost of ink per print, and has the side benefit of making
the remaining ink quantity easy to see. The CIS system is a sealed
system, and as ink is used at the print head, ink is drawn into
the cartridges by a capillary action from the bottles. There
are vent tubes on the bottles so that a vacuum does not form inside
the bottles.
One of the common tips, if there were problems when first installing
the CIS system, is to raise the bottles slightly. In general
this should not ever be necessary - but some users have found
that it helped considerably. This should be used with caution.
If the bottles are raised too high, a gravity assisted ink flow
can occur. Some of the past problems that users have reported
are blobs of ink on the sheet - and in a few rare cases - the
ink has drained out overnight into the bottom of their printer.
PROCEDURE
If
you raised the CIS bottles when first printing to try to establish
a good ink flow, it is a good idea to lower them at a later date
and see if the system will still print well. There may have been
some temporary issue that raising the bottles fixed, and then
later the bottles can be dropped back down once the system was
sealed and the proper capillary action is working. The bottles
should never be raised much more than a CD case height - say 3/8
inch high. If you put your bottles on a 2 inch thick book, you
are asking for a problem to occur.
Be especially careful when you refill the bottles, this has been
a time when people who were printing well before, suddenly had
a problem. If you refill the bottles, we recommend that you put
the bottles back on the table and reevaluate whether or not they
need to be raised.
When refilling your CIS bottles, do not fill them to the brim
- make sure that you don't over fill the bottles - we run them
at about 3/4 full - near the rounded shoulder of the bottle.
Another problem that can occur over time is that the CIS cartridges
themselves may work loose. When the cartridge is successfully
installed there is a seal created so that as ink is used, new
ink is drawn into the permanent cartridge. If the cartridge is
loose and the seal is broken, air can get into the printhead and
the cartridge itself. After many hundreds of prints, this may
occur. Take the time periodically to manually press down on the
permanent cartridges, and make sure that they have not vibrated
loose. Air in the print heads can lead to clogging problems,
air into the permanent cartridge can dry out the sponge material
inside. Replacement cartridges are available if you think this
has happened.
Back to top
2 - DARK INK SCUFF ON
THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE PAPER
Typically this is caused by having a dirty print head
and printing on really thick media or media that slightly curls
at the edge. The print head scuffs the paper, and because it
is dirty on the under side, transfers ink to the edge of the sheet.
PROCEDURE
2.1 - If the problem is caused by really thick media, especially
if you see printhead scuffs in the middle of the sheet, then you
may have to set the printers paper thickness lever from the "0"
to the "+" position. This lever simply raises and lowers
the printhead. It does not have anything to do with the actual
paper feed tension. One note of caution - when this lever is
moved, it greatly effects the print head alignment, and you will
need to realign the printer using the Epson Page Setup alignment
utilities. Always make sure to align the printer on the thickness
of paper you will be printing on. The backside of a ruined sheet
will do. The alignment pattern does not need to be printed on
the normal printing side of a coated paper. It is the thickness
itself of the paper that counts while aligning.
2.2 - If the printhead is striking a curling edge of the paper,
then the problem is the paper itself. Try weighing the paper
down under a heavy weight and see if the paper can be flattened
out.
2.3 - To clean off the underside of the print head, refer to topic
#6.
Back to top
3 - PAPER DID NOT FEED
AND PRINTER PRINTED INK ON ITSELF (especially the 1200)
This problem is most often seen on the Epson 1200. It seems
to be unique among all the printers. If the paper feed slips
and the paper is not pulled into the printer, most all printers
detect this and stop and light the paper warning light. The 1200
skips this step and starts printing all over the black channel
under the printhead. The black channel has ribs and is designed
to catch stray ink. We have seen this happen occasionally on
the other printer types, but it is rare.
PROCEDURE
Immediately stop the print job. Clean the black ribbed channel
with paper towels and Windex (Windolene) / Fantastik. These two
general purpose cleaners do a great job of cleaning up almost
every ink we have printed with.
Back to top
4 - DIRTY ROLLERS LEAVE
ROLLER MARKS ON THE PAPER
Occasionally a roller in the printer gets dirty and
subsequent prints have ink tracks running down the sheet in a
vertical direction. How the roller became dirty can be mysterious,
but the marks themselves are obviously caused by a dirty roller.
PROCEDURE
It is hard to clean the rollers in the machine because they are
gear driven, and turn while the printer is printing. So you can
swab of the top of the rollers, but it is harder to clean them
all the way around because they do not freely spin.
4.1 - EPSON STICKY SHEETS.
Epson sells a tacky cleaning sheet that has a slightly sticky
surface. Often times these sheets are bundled in with other papers.
Follow the Epson instructions to use these sheets to help clean
the rollers.
4.2 - CHEAP TYPING PAPER AND WINDEX TRICK
One trick we have used successfully is to put a sheet of cheap
typing paper in the paper feed and then press the paper load /
eject button to cause the sheet to travel through the printer.
LIGHTLY SPRITZING the paper with Windex or Fantastic as it enters
the machine helps dissolve the ink on the rollers and transfer
the ink to the paper. This can be repeated a few times until
the rollers are clean.
Note
- Common sense should prevail here.
First - Do not spray too much Windex or Fantastic on the
cheap typing paper. If it is heavily saturated the paper can
fall apart as it is pulled through the printer making a mess.
Second - Do not flip the dirty sheet over to save paper
- the wet inky side will make other parts of the printer dirty.
Use the paper once and discard.
Back to top
5 - SPLATTERED INK INSIDE
THE CASE ON THE FAR RIGHT SIDE
All of these small printers have a rudimentary cleaning
mechanism that attempts to keep the print head clean. Most involve
a shaft that spin and a rubber or felt wiper that flaps against
the bottom of the printhead to clean it while running the Cleaning
Utility accessed through the Epson Page Setup box. If many cycles
are run in a row - ink can splatter inside the case. Most people
never notice this and it does not cause much of a problem. A
few people have run 20 cleaning cycles in desperation and have
a real mess inside their printer.
PROCEDURE
If the splattered ink inside your printer is bothering you, it
can be cleaned up fairly easily on the smaller desktop printers.
NOT recommended for the Epson 3000. The 3000 case is very tricky
to dismantle.
5.1 - You can pull the top lid off the printer on most of the
small printers by removing 4 screws, two in the front and two
deeply recessed in the back.
WARNING NOTE - Make sure
to unplug the printer. It is NOT desirable to have the power ON
while cleaning inside the printer.
5.2 - Use paper towels or a soft cloth moistened with Windex or
Fantastik to blot up the stray ink. Make sure not to dislodge
the felt or rubber flap on the metal post. If it does fall out
- it can be placed back in its hole.
5.3 - Reassemble the case using the 4 screws.
Back to top
6 - DRIPS OF EXCESS INK
ON THE PAPER DURING PRINTING
(cleaning the underside
of the printhead, printhead cap)
There are a number of reason that this can happen. If you
are using a CIS bulk feed system, make sure to read topic #1.
This problem becomes more evident after many hundreds of prints
are made. In general, paper dust and lint accumulate on the bottom
of the print head and in the print head cap.
NOTE: Paper towels are made
with many levels of quality. Some really fall apart when wet
and this type is not recommended. There are many possible substitutions
here, for example, you could use photo wipes, lint free cloths
etc. We tend to have rolls of paper towels available next to
the printer, and an ink sogged paper towel can be thrown away
easily. Use common sense, and what ever material you think best.
Some people have reported success using a foam paint stick to
scrub under the print head, and these can be cleaned after use.
Use your ingenuity.
6.1 - PROCEDURE - TO CLEAN OFF THE BOTTOM
OF THE PRINT HEAD
SMALLER DESKTOP PRINTERS
(760, 800, 850, 860, 1160, 1200 ETC.)
1 - Press paper button for 4 seconds, the print head should
be to the left.
Note: Some printers have a
special button for this purpose.
2 - Pull power cord
3 - Tear paper towel in 1/2. (A full sheet is too thick when
folded).
4 - Fold paper towel and lay it in the black plastic channel below
where the print head travels back and forth.
5 - Work the print head up over the paper towel (We are doing
this on a dry paper towel so we can get the print head over it
about an inch or two.)
6 - When the print head is up on the paper towel, squirt some
Windex on the paper towel, and then move the printhead back and
forth to scrub off the bottom.
7 - Move the print head off the towel, pull the towel up and get
everything cleaned up.
8 - Push the print head over to the right parked position.
9 - Plug in the printer and turn it on.
10 - Print the nozzle check and do a couple cleaning cycles as
required to get any paper towel fibers off the bottom of the print
head. They clean right up - and are worth it because you have
removed any large buildups from the bottom of the print head.
6.2 - PROCEDURE - TO CLEAN OFF THE BOTTOM
OF THE PRINT HEAD
LARGER
DESKTOP PRINTERS (3000)
1 - Lift up the top hinged lid so that you can see the print
head.
2 - Turn on the 3000. It will go through a quick cleaning cycle
getting ready to print.
3 - As soon as the printer is ready, the pause light goes off
- reach in and pull gently to the left on the feed tubes attached
to the print head. DO NOT pull too hard. You have about 3 minutes
to do this - and then the head gets locked. If the head gets
locked and you can not gently tug it to the left - turn off the
printer and start over.
4 - Pull power cord
5 - Fold a paper towel and lay in the black plastic channel below
where the print head travels back and forth.
5 - Work the print head up over the paper towel (we are doing
this on a dry paper towel so we can get the print head over it
by an inch or two.
6 - When the print head is up on the paper towel, squirt some
Windex on the paper towel, and then move the printhead back and
forth to scrub off the bottom.
7 - Move the print head off the towel, pull the towel up and get
every thing cleaned up.
8 - Push the print head over to the right parked position.
9 - Plug in the printer and turn it on.
10 - Print the nozzle check and do a couple cleaning cycles as
required to get any paper towel fibers off the bottom of the print
head. They clean right up - and are worth it because you have
removed any large buildups from the bottom of the print head.
6.3 - PROCEDURE - CLEANING THE PRINT
HEAD CAP
The print head cap normally should look clean. The
sponge material will look like a rainbow if you are using color
inks, or all black if you are using quad black inks, but you should
still be able to see the texture of the surface. If the cap looks
like there is a buildup of ink - then this buildup can be transferred
to the print head while the print head is capped. If you are
having problem where a drip of ink lands in the middle of the
print, this could be the problem.
PROCEDURE
1 - Follow the procedure for doing the Windex/Fantastik
treatment. In this case, our goal is not to unclog the inkjet
nozzles, but to clean the print head cap. Saturate the cap sponge,
and blot the sponge with a paper towel.
2 - Repeat this procedure until any build up is removed.
3 - Run a nozzle cleaning cycle.
Link to the Windex/Fantastik treatment
(The clog from hell)
Back to top
7 - AGGRESSIVE PRINTHEAD
CLEANING TIPS
We have developed these tips mostly in our past experiments
trying out every color inkset we can find. As we experiment and
flush and charge printers with all kinds of inks from many different
manufacturers, we run into serious problems now and then.
PROCEDURE
Rather than a step by step instructions - this section
will relate our experiences. Someone attempting these methods,
should feel they are good with using tools and taking things apart
and putting things back together. Use common sense at all times.
7.1 - One of the easiest ways to try to rescue a really plugged
up print head is to put the Epson inks back in and print a number
of flush images (made up of a lot of gradient bars) and cleaning
cycles. Alternate this with periods where the machine is turned
off. This is the least invasive of the methods, and has been
known to work. And if you need to call Epson, it is easier if
you can truthfully say you are printing with their inks.
7.2 - Extreme Gamut (tm) color inkset once completely blocked
up a cyan head in one of our 3000's. Repeated Windex treatments
to the printhead cap failed to solve the problem for over a week,
and we seriously thought we would have to send the printer in
for repair. We decided to be bold first and see what we could
do. We moved the print head to the middle of the printer and
pulled the power cord. There are two screws on the lid of the
print head assembly and opening this revealed the four ink lines
and four ink reservoirs. The ink reservoirs simply pull off to
reveal an ordinary print head assembly like all the small desktop
printers. The reservoirs press on to the same spikes that would
normally pierce the small cartridges when they are first installed.
We worked a folded paper towel under the printhead. Using a 60
cc syringe from a CIS kit and some clear tubing from the syringe
to the spike with the hole, we forced Windex / Fantastik through
the print head. After we reassembled the printhead and reinstalled
the lid, the first nozzle check showed a 90% recovery. After
the machine was left off over night, the print head was 100% functional.
The clear tubing can be found in hardware stores, or pet shops
in the aquarium department.
This procedure is easier on the smaller desktop printers. Removing
the ink cartridge reveals the spikes with the hole that pierce
the cartridges when first installed. The methodology is the same.
This procedure has rescued a few printers that started printing
small white lines in the print where a print nozzle had stopped
printing for a short interval and then cleared.
Others have successfully forced hot water through the printhead,
and rescued a malfunctioning printhead.
7.3 - We have seen Epson 3000's that did not successfully purge
and charge all 4 lines when switching inksets. Similar to the
procedure above, we have removed the print head assembly lid,
and pulled up on the ink reservoir's to pull them off of the spike.
The CIS kit comes with a syringe kit and the parts that are useful
are the 60 cc syringe itself, and a small plastic cone that pushes
over the end of the syringe. The cone can be inserted into the
ink reservoir and it makes a good seal. Using the syringe we
have been able to successfully prime the system manually by pulling
the ink through until the reservoir is full. The reservoir is
then pushed back on the spike with the hole. Run a few cleaning
cycles and let the printer set for a few hours.
This same procedure has been useful for CIS kits for the 1160
or 1200 etc., that have been removed from a printer and that sat
in a box for months as the printer was used for other testing.
We pull some ink through to make sure they are primed with ink
and ready to go when reinserted in the printer.
Back to top
8 - TIPS TO AVOID CLEANLINESS
PROBLEMS
We would never mount a piece of paper to the drum of
an IRIS printer and begin printing without first cleaning the
sheet with a drafters brush. After we had been printing a while
on the Epson printers, we realized that we had not been giving
them the respect they are due - and had casually stuffed hundreds
of sheets of paper through the printer. As the printers became
progressively dirtier inside, we realized these printers, because
they are not designed to be cleaned by the user, will especially
benefit from keeping the printer clean in the first place.
PROCEDURE
8.1
- Make sure to brush your paper your paper down with a drafters
brush or equivalent to keep dust particles from accumulating to
the bottom of the print head. The cleaner the paper the longer
between gunked up print heads
8.2 - It was very common in the old days of typewriters to cover
the machine with a dust cover at night. Especially if you have
high dust conditions, consider covering the printer with some
sort of material while the printer is off. The cleaner the printer
stays inside - the longer the interval between required cleanings.
Back to top